Mango Ice Cream according to Corvitto

Introduction

Today I'll try to make Victoria's favourite ice cream, the mango ice cream, or rather sorbet.

To prepare it I'll start from the recipe Corvitto proposes in his book Ice Cream Without Secrets, which in my opinion is the most complete book with the most scientific detail for preparing this kind of flavour with the tools we have.

Specifically the challenges are mainly two. Managing to get a soft, elegant texture, with a fruit that is mainly watery, and enhancing the mango flavour without it being too sweet a taste.

The parameters of mango are in fact:

• 90% water
• 10% solids
• POD: 10 (i.e. equivalent to 10g of sugar equivalent per 100g of mango)
• PAC: 10 (i.e. equivalent to 10g of sugar equivalent per 100g of mango)
• PH: 5, slightly acidic
• Usable weight about 72%, the rest is skin and stone

Regarding sweetness, we'll use the preparation suggested in Corvitto's book, but changing the ingredient proportions slightly. In particular we'll reduce the POD, since for Victoria's personal taste the ice creams proposed by Corvitto are always too sweet from what she told me, and this is her taste!

A package of new ingredients just arrived at home, including glucose 21DE powder, and this is the perfect recipe to try it! So I'll swap part of the sugar for glucose 21DE.

Compared to the original recipe, I'll change:

• Part of the sugars for Glucose 21DE
• A little lemon juice to correct the acidity and prevent the colour from oxidizing
• The recipe mentions ‘3 grams of Sorbet Neutro’. I'll add directly the two stabilizers Locust Bean Gum and guar gum
• The proportion of dextrose to aim for a serving temperature of -14.5C

Ingredients

Prepared for about 1kg:

Balancing

iCalc chart

Preparation

Tested with 800g using the machine Cuisinart ICE-100

1. Ingredient preparation:
   1. Prepare all the solid powders together
   2. Cut and process the mango pulp
   3. add the lemon to the chopped mango and mix
2. Pasteurization:

   The process below is to do it faster and save time, even though it might not be ideal and following best practices. If you don't like it, proceed with standard pasteurization and ingredient addition.

   1. Boil 150 g of water with a kettle up to 90ºC
   2. Add the powders a little at a time
   3. Add the remaining water at a temperature when
   4. Bring down the temperature of the mix to reach below 10 degrees
   5. Add the chopped mango pulp and mix
3. Maturation: one night at 4 °C or less
4. Churning: 30min, extracted at around -5.5ºC
5. Time in the freezer: 1st test 1 h; 2nd test 12 h in the freezer (removed at −14 °C) and 1.5 h in the fridge, served at −11 °C.

Final notes and tasting test

• Overrun: 25%
• Serving temperature: -14
• Texture: Creamy
• Meltability: Slow
• Crystallization: Slight excess of water

Tasting notes

• At -14C it gives a rather cold perception
• Fresh and natural flavour, well done

Conclusions

The ice cream turned out quite well!

The texture was interesting and it really does seem like a professional-quality ice cream. Not very sweet for our taste, and I think we can experiment to improve the cold sensation by increasing the solids slightly further.

Certainly the quality of the mango is the key point of this recipe. The ones we used were quite good but not the best (we bought them at ALDI), so I'd like to try to find mangoes that are even fresher and better and more fragrant.

The process suggested by Corvitto as always doesn't disappoint and gave an excellent result.

I'm curious to try this ice cream in a low-glycemic-impact version, that is with fructose as a sweetener to lower the glycemic index.

Possible improvements are:

• Increasing the solids slightly could improve the perceived temperature and the perception of water
• Raising the mango quality further as a key ingredient
• One could try using fructose instead of sugar and dextrose